I watch the forest breathe

The land of yogis and trees. I look back on my childhood memories at this enchanted pocket of the world – located in central Sri Lanka, Ulpotha is rich with the purest energy emanating from the fresh faces of guests to the organically grown food to the wild surrounding fauna. The trees range from bamboo to banyan, the tops of some lie submerged in the fresh water tank; during dry season, the water marks can be seen striped across the middle of the ancient rocks that line the perimeter of the water. Jumping off the steps, I glide into the earthy water and lie on my back looking up at the grand mountains and taking a moment to reflect. I imagine this scene millions of years ago, untouched, exactly the same - a long necked dinosaur leaning it’s head into the water for a drink would top it off perfectly.

I’ve been going since I was a buba myself, once upon a time groups of us were rampaging through the ancient forest playing cops and robbers, hiding behind the giant roots of trees or the lush green grass of the rice paddies – careful not to disturb the adults who we could always hear laughing or chanting, the sound of a gong now and then, reverberating across the grounds. It was our magical playground by day and by night it all disappeared with no electricity or lights; instead, oil lamps hang scattered inside the mud huts or along the pathways. It was so raw and wild that we’d always be careful to stomp our feet loudly for snakes and creepy crawlies, it wasn’t until 10 years later that I actually witnessed one!

We never appreciated it enough as children, but now as we live such chaotic lives full of all sorts of stressors, Ulpotha is the perfect place to wind down and press pause for a little while. With no sense of time you’re able to truly slow your breath down: in yoga classes, during an Ayurvedic healing, a natural shower or a gentle bike ride through the local village. Everything’s very spread out in Ulpotha, allowing you to be social yet have your space at the same time, it doesn’t take too long to get your bearings but ‘the Cade hut’ is definitely one to remember, as it’s always open for a Tambili (King coconut) or a yummy snack.

It’s rare to have time to fully relax these days and a shame that it often takes a drastic change in environment to do so – but with options like Ulpotha readily available, why wouldn’t you jump at the opportunity? Sri Lanka in itself is a gem, with its strong Buddhist influence, scenic land and loving people (despite their heavy history of conflict). I’ve never met someone who hasn’t shared the same thoughts and feelings as I.

We’re usually lucky enough to go to Ulpotha for New Year and while it’s always pretty similar, there’s something special you take away each time you leave. The same faces tend to appear and new ones are always welcomed. This year was the driest new year so far, the water in the tank was so low, we waded through the middle of the lake feeling the melted chocolate-like mud squelch and squirt through our toes, the wading soon turned into a therapeutic mud bath as we lathered it all over our bodies and returned to land to bake on the bank in the afternoon sun.

By night, it comes to life, friends, guests, local villagers and staff all joined together to dance on the smooth rocks to the rhythmic beats of Sri Lankan drummers, while the girl’s jangled and spun in their beautiful saris. Come 8am the local shaman had arrived to bless the land for another year by boiling the milk for the milk-rice (a local treat) as we patiently stood and observed the ritual.

Although time doesn’t exist in Ulpotha, it always ends too fast. But you come away inspired by the culture and energy that you’ve gained. One day I hope to take my children there, to run along the dusty paths, feel the magical energy and watch the forest breathe.